The Path of the Gods
I ticked off a bucket list item this morning. Hiking Sentierio degli Die, the Path of the Gods. Before that could happen we needed to take the bus from Amalfi to Bomerano. The narrow roads and hairpins of the Amalfi Coast are not exactly designed for buses. I'm not sure they're even designed for cars. This did not deter the busdriver, who swung and finangled the long 56 seater around the bends as if simply tooting the horn to whatever melody took his whim would be all it took to keep the roads clear ahead and the cliffs a comfortable distance away from the windows.
The path of the Gods had spectacular views over the villages and landscape of Amalfi and the Mediterranean Sea and sky that blends together in a hazy blue horizon. The bus trip also features these characteristics, thus making it the bus route of the Gods.
The hike itself was stunning. Cliffs and forests and an unending stream of views all the way to Nocelle. That's the official end of the hike, but it is possible to continue down the hill to Positano, and because Positano is both renown for its beauty and also where the ferry leaves for Amalfi, it made logical sense to continue downward after a quick lemon granita.
The route down to Positano contains a lot of steps. They can be conquered, but probably at the cost of being able to enjoy yourself when the ocean brings a merciful end to the downhill slog. Particularly because Positano is itself a city of steps, and that's how I felt today. Barely able to walk, we bought a quick lunch by the beach then it was time to get out.
Positano like a poisonous flower. Beautiful, but deadly. Today in June its narrow laneways and staircases were choked by crowds. It felt like a mix of people who had saved up for years for the holiday of a lifetime, and people who dock their yachts off the Amalfi Coast for a few weeks most summers. I didn't enjoy the vibe.
The docks to get out of Positano were also crowded, and not pleasant, particularly under a hot sun in sticky air. We crammed into the ferry with the rest of the yacht-deprived and when there was finally no room to move on deck we disembarked. After an amazing hike among the clouds, it was the ferry ride of humanity back to Amalfi.
But for the opportunity to complete this hike, it was totally worth it.
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The woman with the fake tan stepped into my office, sat across from my desk and lit a cigarette.
At least, she would, sometime in the next 20 minutes. Smelling the future has advantages, but precision isn’t one of them.